Wind damaged roofs

December 30th, 2010

Perhaps you’ve just returned from your holiday to find some roof shingles in your yard; they might be from your roof or they could be from a house on another block.

Northern Virginia has had some incredibly high winds over the past week, some in excess of 80 mph. The same winds that knock down trees and power lines can send a few of your roof shingles sailing away as well; don’t panic its usually an easy fix.

If you find a few shingle tabs in your yard step back a bit and look at the color; does it match your roof ? Look up at the roof, especially at the ridge line; see any bumps that weren’t there before?  Ridge vents and furnace flues can sometimes get loose in high winds, they should all look straight.

This furnace flue got pushed over in the wind; you can see how the corner of the flashing was pulled up.

Wind damaged shingles Wind reaches its highest speed at the edges of a solid object (like an airplane wing); the most common place for shingles to be damaged is at the ridge/peak of the roof.

missing shingles

Sometimes the missing shingles can be hard to see.

creased shingle tab

This shingle tab bent back and over in the wind; asphalt shingles aren’t flexible, they only bend back once, the second time a shingle bends back it cracks off and flies away.

If you suspect that your roof has taken a beating in the winds you can call us anytime, we will go up  and inspect for damage. We will take pictures of the damage (if any) and let you know the level of urgency for any repairs. Call us now 703-299-8888.

Thanks,

Tom

Chimney Flashing Repair

October 1st, 2010

One of the top sources for roof leaks is the flashing around the chimney.  Making and installing flashings on the roof is part art and science and it takes a considerable amount of skill to do properly; I’ve found that the art end of the job is what gets people in trouble. The following pictures show how we do our work; the flashings we make for chimneys and skylights are bulletproof and have never caused us to return to a clients house again, I also think they are lovely to look at.

We measure the length and width of your chimney and the slope of your roof. The flashings are custom made in our sheet metal shop for your chimney. Depending on the type of roof we can make the flashings from zinc, copper, stainless steel, aluminum and lead coated copper; they can also be painted any color you wish.  We can fabricate flashings of any size no matter how big or small your chimney or skylight.

copper chimney flashing

Once the flashings are made they are sent out to the project with all other necessary materials. The pictures below show the old flashing and shingles being removed, some rotted wood being replaced and finally the installation of waterproof underlayment.

old chimney flashing repair

The old flashing is rusted through tin

repair of chimney flashing

new piece of 1x6 roof decking where the other had rotted

waterproof underlayment on chimney

Installing waterproof underlayment around the chimney

Most elements on a slate or shingle roof are installed from the bottom up, here we start by installing the lowest flashing called the apron.

copper apron flashing

Installing the copper apron flashing

Next we install step flashings, step flashing are small “L” shaped pieces of metal that are laced in to each course of shingles as they climb up the side of the chimney.

chimney flashing repair

Step flashings are installed in each course of shingles

This is the most critical piece of the entire assembly, the pan flashing does most of the work in shedding water. We form our pan flashings with a rounded bottom edge (vs. a sharp fold) to keep this area dry; creased or square folded metal can hold water which leads to corrosion and leakage. All of the seams we use are double locked and are completely waterproof, no matter what nature throws at this house the chimney will not leak.

copper chimney flashing

Copper pan flashing being installed behind the chimney

The pieces that cover the step flashing along the sides of the chimney are called counter-flashings, here it is being trimmed to fit beneath the pan and over the apron flashing.

chimney flashing repair

Counter flashing being installed on the chimney sides

The final step is applying a bead of high quality sealant to the joint between the new flashings and the masonry.

Chimney flashing repair

Completed copper chimney flashing repair

This roof will be good for another five years, when replacement of the roof becomes necessary our flashings can be reused. If your chimney or skylight is leaking we have a bulletproof solution, call any time and we will be on our way.

Tom 703-299-8888

P.S. If you are out our of our service area we can make and ship a complete skylight or chimney flashing kit to you. All you need to tell us is the measurements of the chimney or skylight and the slope of your roof and we can have it on the way to you in a day or two. Just call 703-299-8888

New Roof with Ice Dam Protection

September 30th, 2010

This house has a fairly deep soffit, a soffit or eave is the section of roof that protrudes past the wall of the house.  The area where the roof passes the wall of the house can be troublesome in winter, in the right conditions ice dams can occur. Ice dams happen when the roof is covered with at least 4″ of snow and the outside temperature is below freezing. Heat from the attic melts the snow from the underside, that water then rolls down the roof to the edge where it is confronted with a colder section at the eave; then the water refreezes at the edge of the roof near the gutter. Once this thaw/freeze cycle happens over a few days there begins to be a pile up of ice at the edge of the roof; the ice can get so high that the meltwater can’t get off the roof and begins to pool. The pool of water can then backup into the house, soaking everything below it.

Step one: we remove all the existing roofing and check the plywood roof deck for any rot.

Because this roof has a deep soffit we needed to install 72″ of ice and water shield to protect against ice dams. The lighter gray material close to the edge is the ice and water shield; its a self adhering membrane bonds to the plywood roof deck, once in place it acts like a waterproof liner in the event of harsh winter weather. Now the snow ice can pile up more than 25″ high (very unlikely) and my clients will be safe and dry in their home.

72" of ice and water shield applied to the eave

Once the drip edge, ice and water shield and felt paper are installed we can begin to install the shingles.

roof shingles being installed

We cut back the roof decking to allow for a ridge vent, this will remove the hot moist air from the attic.

slot cut in roof for ridge vent

Matching caps over the ridge vent allow it to disappear. You may be able to notice that the caps look like they are hovering a half an inch over the peak of the roof, that is the airspace that the ridge vent requires to exhaust the attic.

Cobra ridge vent with Timbertex ridge caps

New 16oz copper flashing was fabricated for the chimney, this will keep one of the most vulnerable points in the roof watertight.

Copper chimney flashing

Final cleanup, and we’re on our way to the next house . This roof is now ready to face the worst possible weather conditions.

There are a lot more steps than this; I just wanted to highlight the really important ones here. If your roof suffered through last winter you should take action now, I can come up with a plan for your house that will make snow something to look forward to instead of dreading.

Call me at 703-299-8888

Tom

Standing Seam Copper Roof

September 10th, 2010

This is a covered porch on the rear of a house we completely re roofed a few years ago. The structure was built by Harry Braswell, Inc. and is designed to give the owner some covered outdoor space.

The main house roof is covered with GAF Timberline asphalt shingles in Charcoal with a few lower accent roofs in standing seam copper; keeping with the same scheme, copper became the obvious choice for the new porch.

Copper roof layout One very important note here; you’ll notice that the rosin paper and felt are secured with copper nails; I have seen many jobs where the underlayment was installed with steel nails, cap nails or even staples. Using anything but copper nails will lead to a failure; copper is soft, steel nails and staples will eventually wear through the copper panels as the panels expand and contract over the nail heads and staple crowns. If you are considering installing a metal roof ask your contractor how he installs his felt and paper, if he says staples or cap nails you should find another roofer.

The black paper is 30# asphalt felt, it provides temporary waterproofing if it happens to rain before the job is finished; the pink paper you see is Red Rosin Paper, its job is to isolate the copper panels from the asphalt felt. I could write pages about why copper needs to be kept away from felt paper but I’ll save that for another post.

standing seam copper roof eave detail As the panels are laid out across the roof they are locked to each other and then are folded over the copper drip edge at the eave edge of the roof. This curved eave end detail you see here is virtually unknown on this side of the Atlantic. Although this detail is barely visible from the ground I think it adds a “hidden jewel” aspect to the job.

“Can you show me how to do it??” Sadly, no; the only two people I’m teaching this to are currently in Kindergarten and Pre-School, and they are going to have to wait at least 12 more years to learn it.

Snow guards on standing seam copper roof After the eaves and seams are completed we installed new snow guards. These bronze guards clamp onto the standing seams and keep ice and snow from sliding off the roof in large sheets. There are many different designs for this purpose, guards can be casted to look like eagles, pineapples, fleur de lis, and clovers.

Copper gutter and standing seam copper roof And finally a copper gutter to carry the rainwater away.

If your house needs a hidden (or not so hidden) jewel you should call me, I’ll be happy to help.

Thanks for reading,

Tom

New Flat Roof with Tapered Insulation

August 5th, 2010

Flat roof holding waterThis is an EPDM (rubber) roof; it was installed over an existing built up (tar and gravel) roof; due to a number of factors it consistently held about 4″ of water on its surface. Although the name can be deceiving, a flat roof needs slope; not a lot, just enough to encourage the water to drain off to a gutter or roof drain within 24-36 hours after a rain. This house used to hold about 2″ of water all year round; if the owner wanted to he could have started a brine shrimp farm.

Old roof removedAfter the EPDM was peeled back it became obvious that the roof has been leaking for a very long time. The brown insulation board the previous roofer installed over the tar and gravel roof has basically dissolved. Now only rusted screws remain, holding fast to a charge that has since washed away beneath their once tightly drawn heads; decades spent diligently doing a job that had been doomed to fail. (I don’t think anyone reads these posts; prove me wrong- send a text to 571-830-zero six three four and I’ll send you a gift card)

When new roofs are laid on top of old roofs this happens more times than not; old flashings, lumpy surfaces and less than ideal substrates make it difficult to achieve good drainage and solid details. In fourteen years I have never done a recover; every roof we replace has the old roof removed first.

old roof removed All of the EPDM and the last of the tar and gravel are being removed from the roof. Once all the old roof comes off we check for rotted decking and loose boards.

tapered insulation and skylight curbsThe existing skylights were mounted on flat curbs; all roof components need slope. Because the old curbs were perfectly flat the glass skylight lenses leaked. I built new curbs with a 15 degree slope, now water and debris will wash off.

You can also see the first run of tapered insulation being installed; it may be hard to tell but the insulation is thicker on the right side of the picture than it is on the left. Tapered Polyisocyanurate insulation board is basically 4′x4′ modules that are sloped in one direction, we install these in various sequences to add slope to a flat roof where there is none. Installing tapered insulation is far less expensive than adding new framing or moving rafters and achieves the exact same results; it also adds some pretty good r-value to the roof assembly.

Tapered roof insulationWith the insulation installed we now have a perfect surface to install our new roof; the roof now rises from .5″ at the gutter to almost 9″ at the front wall. There will be absolutely no ponding water on this roof or on the skylights.

TPO roof over tapered insulation board This is TPO; its a thermoplastic roofing membrane that comes in a few colors but white is by far the most popular. TPO requires no glue or sealants, the seams and flashings are welded with a hot air welder; once properly welded they require no further attention–ever. The bright white surface will keep the upper floors of the house a lot cooler than the black EPDM roof that was in place before. We also replaced the skylights with new energy efficient lenses, these are lo-e and have UV blocking properties that let sunlight in but block out the solar wavelength that brings heat.

This picture was taken at the end of the first day; although not 100% complete there is no danger of this roof leaking if it rained over night (which it did). I was happy to see in the morning that the roof had no water on it and we were able to go right back to work.

Flat roof Before Before

TPO flat roof with sky lightsAfter

TPO flat roof with skylight flashings

This roof will last much longer than its predecessor; proper layout, flashing details and planning can give a roof a chance to live up to its potential.

If you have a problem with ponding water on your roof, give us a call.

Thanks,

Tom

703-299-8888

New Slate Roof

July 29th, 2010

Roof slates sealed with caulkThis was one of my favorite projects this spring; the existing slate roof was on it’s last leg and had been the victim of some lousy repairs over the years. You can see where some of the slates have just turned to powder, when more than 25% of the slates have gone bad the most prudent thing to do is schedule a complete replacement.

The light gray blobs between the slates is old roof cement; this was someone’s attempt to stop a leak; sealing between slate keyways will usually make the leak worse-not better.

At least 60% of the existing slates have lost the will to live; some have turned to powder that hasn’t blown away yet.

Old roof slates

Tear Off: we removed all the existing slate, we checked the roof deck and made a few minor repairs. Despite the condition of slate the roof has surprisingly few leaks.

Old roof removed

Underlayment and layout of the new roof:

First step is the installation of new 20 oz copper drip edge, this has two purposes; first it becomes our square edge to start layout, secondly it keeps water from backing up and rotting the facia and soffit. Once the drip edge is installed it pretty much disappears but its a critical part of the roof and must last as long as the slates will; hence super heavy 20 oz copper.

Copper drip edge and slate cant strip

Next we installed waterproof underlayment at the eave to a point 24″ inside the warm wall of the house; this will protect the roof from ice dams. then we install two layers of 30# felt to temporarily protect the structure from rain and to give us a clean smooth surface to lay out our slates. We take a long time during layout; before any slates are installed we make sure that they line up evenly on each side of the house. Failing to perform these calculations can leave the house with full slates on the left side and little tiny slates on the right; instead of even sized slates on both sides; look at some houses; you’ll see what Im talking about.

Del Carmen Roof slateMy client chose Del Carmen slate, they are quarried in western Spain and are rated S1. The S1 rating means they will have a useful life of no less than 100 years; they come in many different sizes, these are 16×10 ultra heavy. The previous roof was a thin soft slate in 24×12; I thought they were too big and looked like dinner plates on the roof. It took roughly 350 more slates of 16×10 than it would have if I installed the same 24×12’s; more slates look better, and the thicker profile of the ultra heavies give the roof a rich texture.

New slate roof End of day three; although the roof is very steep we made very good progress. The cloudy gray dust is slate marl (dust) that gets on the slates when the quarry cuts them in Spain, a few hours of rain will rinse it off and let the rich color come through.

Slate roof with new copper wall flashing The front porch got a new roof with less obtrusive copper loop snow guards; they still keep ice from sliding off the roof but are a little less visible than the larger ones we had to use on the main roof. We also installed a new copper gutter on the upper main house roof.

Del Carmen Slate Roof The trees cover my gorgeous roof; I’m sad to report that this is pretty much the best angle to see it. This picture was taken about a month after we finished the job, the copper is starting to turn a dark bronze color and the true deep rich color of the slate is coming through.

Before:Old slate roof this is the day before we ripped the old roof off.

After: back to beautiful again. new Del Carmen Slate roof with copper snow guards I love slate; I’d love to put it on your house, call me if you love slate too.

Thanks,
Tom

703-299-8888

Eco-Star Majestic Slate

July 2nd, 2010

We have been repairing the roof on this house for years. The house was roofed with a tile that was designed to look like slate; it was made up of slate dust and cement formed into a uniform slate shape. The product failed miserably and the company that produced it was sued out of existence.

Before:

Dura Slate

The darker spots you see are where I made repairs to the roof; since the original product is no longer available I had to use real slates for repairs.

Broken slates

EPDM flat roof There is a flat roof on top of this house, the old roof was black EPDM rubber. Although it never leaked, it’s matte black surface got incredibly hot. There were also two fans on thermostat controls that would try to keep the attic interior cool.

eco-star majestic slate and copper flashings Once the old roof was removed we checked that the plywood roof deck was sound, this house had no leaks and it’s roof deck was in great shape. We installed new waterproof underlayment to provide temporary coverage and to give us a new clean surface to lay out our slates.  The large copper flashing around the flue pipe was fabricated in the shop, since the material we are installing will last for 50+ years it becomes critical to have all flashing components last just as long. Copper flashings will last for at least 80 years.

The Owner chose Eco-Star Majestic Slate in Federal Gray; I think is was a perfect choice and it complements the stone and brick you will see later in post.

Copper turret cap and slate roof I tell clients “I never want to see you again”; and I mean it in the best possible way. I’ll never leave any component on a roof that might cause a problem in the future, we replace every bit of flashing, every pipe collar and even decorative pieces. I fabricated the turret caps in the shop from 16oz copper.

Flat soldered seam copper roof There are two small flat seam copper roofs on the house, they are basically sheets of copper that are folded at the seams and soldered with tin/lead along the seams. After a month or two the roofs will turn a bronze color, within 12-20 years they’ll turn to a perfect green patina.

Flat seam soldered copper roof Here you see the second flat seam copper roof and a really good close up of the slate.

Iso board flat roof insulationOnce we removed the old black rubber roof we installed new polyisocyanurate insulation board, this is a dense foam board that provides a high r-value and a clean smooth surface to lay out our new roofing membrane. The small silver plates are used with epoxy coated screws to anchor the insulation to the roof deck.

White TPO flat roof Since the house is taller than any tree around it we took full advantage of the sun. The new roof membrane we installed is white TPO; a thermoplastic that uses no adhesives or sealants (low voc) in its installation. The seams of the roofing and the associated flashings are welded with a hot air welder; once finished they require no further maintenance or caulk over the life of the roof. The previous black rubber roof easily reached 160 degrees in full sun, our new bright white TPO roof is only a few degrees above ambient air temperature because of its naturally reflective surface.

The old roof had two electric attic fans, one was noisy and the other had stopped working altogether. I replaced them with these solar powered units; the panels face Southwest so they are in full sun from 11am to around 5pm (hottest time of day). They are virtually silent, require no electricity  and will be working hardest when the sun is at its most fierce. The bright white roof and solar powered fans will make the upper floors of this house a happier place to be.

Slate tiles and copper snowguardsThese copper snow guards were placed at 12″ intervals around the entire perimeter of the roof. Snow guards keep sliding snow and ice on the roof until it either melts or breaks up into harmless pieces. This house had no ice protection before and sliding snow and ice had done a lot of damage to the gutters.

Eco-Star majestic slate Federal Gray All finished.

Ecostar majestic slate This was a very eco-friendly job; the slates are made from almost 90% recycled materials, the flat roof is energy star rated and there are two solar powered fans keeping the roof cool.

This was a tough job; it had very steep slopes with beautiful landscaping beneath, virtually none of the old tiles could hit the ground when the old roof was removed. The week we did this job the temps were in the high 90’s; covering trees and shrubs with tarps on days that hot will have them overheated and cooked by days end. We removed just a few of the old cement tiles at a time, delivered them up to the flat roof where they were taken down the front to the dump truck; basically handling the material four times instead of the normal two. I must say I’m very proud of the roof and also that all of the trees, shrubs and plants are safe and sound.

I’ve been installing Eco-Star slate for the past twelve years, my oldest job looks just as good as the day i put it on. If you have a failing real or synthetic slate roof this product might be perfect for you. Call 703-299-8888 and ask for Tom if you would like to discuss the possibilities.

Hail Damaged Roof

May 17th, 2010

A quick Q & A when it comes to hail damage and your home:

What does hail damage on my roof look like?

Asphalt shingle hail damage

Asphalt shingle hail damage

You can see the dark spots where the granules are knocked off, this is where the shingle will start to fall apart. As the sun makes the asphalt base brittle more and more granules will fall off. Within a pretty short amount of time your roof will look like its 30 years old.


What happens when hail hits my house?

If the hail is large enough and flying fast enough it can dent your siding and gutters, it can crack your skylights and even make holes in vinyl siding.

What about my roof?

When hail strikes asphalt shingles if can blow off the granules on the face of the shingle. The face of asphalt shingles is made up of ceramic granules, the granules give the shingle it’s color but more importantly they protect the asphalt base of the shingle from the sun. When asphalt is exposed to the sun it will age exponentially, the suns ultraviolet rays make the asphalt in the shingle brittle. When the shingles become brittle they fail; you have seen old cracked neglected asphalt driveways, now think of a parking lot or driveway that has been sealed. Same principle, the sealant on the driveway does the same job that the tiny granules do on the roof.

My roof looks fine from the ground…

Most of them do, however the only way to check for hail damage is to go up on the roof and look. If the hood of your car is dented, if you can see dents in the gutters or if there is dented or cracked siding then chances are the roof took a beating too.

What do I do now?

First; protect your house. If the skylight was shattered or a vent was torn off in the wind you should call a licensed roofing contractor to cover anything that might lead to more damage to your house.

Second; call and file an insurance claim. If your house has a lot of damage your insurer will send out a claims adjuster. If the hail damage is widespread it might take a while to get a representative to you. After big storm events independent adjusters will come in from all over the country to work through the claims; most claims are settled within three weeks.

Third; get estimates for repairs. It will make the process a lot easier if you have an estimate for the repairs when the adjuster meets you at the house. The adjuster will make determinations of what he will cover and what he won’t; the insurance company may pay for an entire new roof or they may pay for re-roofing one damaged area.

Can you replace the roof, gutters and siding?

Yes we can. We do it all the time.

Do I have to replace my roof or siding now?

No, you don’t. However prices for roofing, siding and gutters go up every year, your insurance company is paying you a fractional amount of what the work costs today. By not replacing the damaged parts of your house now you will be left to pick up the difference later. Also some insurance companies have cut off dates for allowing claims; if you wait too long you may be out of luck. Also, selling a house with hail damage can be difficult.

Which contractor should I hire?

Hire someone local, hire a contractor that has an investment in your satisfaction. When large disasters happen contractors (called storm-chasers) will be driving here with both feet on the gas from all over the country; they skip town as soon as the work dries up or until an even bigger storm hits somewhere else. Many storm-chasers do good, honest work, but some leave homeowners with shoddy repairs and material suppliers with piles of unpaid invoices. You may have heard of the “tail light warranty”; that means the warranty on his work is good as long as you can see the tail lights on his truck.

Hire a contractor with a fixed local business address, a good Better Business Bureau rating, a website, a CheckBook rating, a stellar Angie’s List Rating, a long local reference list and a vested interest in your happiness. Although the guy from Oklahoma may say all the right things he certainly wont be heading back to see you if there is a problem.

Row House Flat Roof

May 13th, 2010

We just finished these row houses. I’m writing about them because unlike the hundreds we have already done these are more like bathtubs than roofs.

Usually, flat roofed houses have at least one side that is open with parapet walls (parapets are walls that are higher than the roof) on either two or three sides. The slightly pitched roofs usually slope toward the area where the parapet is missing, in place of the parapet there is a gutter to carry all of the rainwater away. These houses have had additions built on where that open area once was.

Flat roof with ponding water

Flat roof with ponding water

This vinyl sided area you see was built where the roof used to drain into a gutter. A drain was installed on the left side to handle the rain and melting snow. The drain failed during a huge snowstorm and water came into the house on all three levels.

The roof also has a pretty deep depression, when I was done shoveling off the snow I found about three inches of standing water right in the center of the roof; this roof has to fill up with at least 4″ of water before the first drop ever starts to flow into the drain; not cool. Standing water will kill a flat roof in no time. Would you want to get into a tub with 3″ of last nights water in it? Besides being a mosquito day spa, standing water on the roof starts to smell as leaves and debris start to accumulate and it begins to turn into a pond, a pond without a peeing cherub.

Solving the ponding problem:

Tapered insulation is a dense foam 4′x4′ board that has a slope heading in one direction. We use these 4′ square boards in different combinations to add slope to a retrograde roof.

Tapered insulation

Tapered insulation

You can see how the insulation slopes from 1/2″ on the right to 3″ on the left; by the time the insulation is installed across the roof it will be 6″ high; sloping all the way down to 1/2″.

Tapered insulation

Tapered insulation

The insulation is installed and the first course of the White TPO membrane is being installed.

TPO scupper drain

TPO scupper drain

Since this roof has wall all around it I fabricated a scupper drain, the square plate you see is attached to a stainless steel tube, the tube runs through the brick wall to the outside. This is just like the drain in your tub.

TPO scupper drain

TPO scupper drain

This is the same scupper drain from the back. Its made from TPO coated galvanized steel so we can weld our roofing directly to it. The square tube is made from stainless steel and I solder it to the TPO coated metal. This will pass through the brick parapet wall and carry the water away.

Flat roof before

Flat roof before

Before:

When I took this picture it hadn’t rained for two weeks but the roof still had an inch of water on it.

TPO flat roof with tapered insulation

TPO flat roof with tapered insulation

You can see how the roof pitches directly to the drain, no more pond, no more leaks.

Scupper drain and conductor head

Scupper drain and conductor head

This is where the scupper drain comes through the brick wall, I installed a white aluminum cover plate over the drain tube. Then I installed a conductor head to direct the water down the downspout to the ground.

Here is the other project that we finished the same week:

Before:

Flat roof

Flat roof

This one also failed miserably during a snow storm. Instead of installing a proper flat roof they chose to use a mixture of shingles, flat roof membranes and tar. It worked about as well as you could expect.

During:

New insulation

New insulation

Old roof removed and new insulation installed.

new White TPO flat roof

new White TPO flat roof

New white TPO membrane and new scupper drain installed and ready to face another winter.

TPO scupper drain

TPO scupper drain

My new drain with a plate and conductor head.

Old roof drain

Old roof drain

This was the old drain, the contractor just knocked the bricks out, laid in some bits of metal and tar and called it a day. I was actually surprised it lasted as long as it did.

There are ways to properly address any roof, no matter what the previous owner or roofer did we can always fix it.

If you are having trouble with your roof call me any time.

Standing Seam Terne Metal Roof

January 28th, 2010
Standing seam roof to shingle roof

Standing seam roof to shingle roof

This is TCS II; it has a core of stainless steel with a zinc/tin overlay. Look at a dime; copper in the middle and shiny nickel/chromium on the outside; TCSII is bonded and laminated in very much the same way.

Why laminate the stainless you ask? Well, stainless steel stays bright and shiny forever, thats not the look most architects are looking for. The zinc overlay on the stainless core starts out shiny and then develops a patina; a light gray color. By marrying these two metals together you get the best of both worlds; you get the longevity of stainless steel and the beauty of zinc.

TCSII standing seam roof

TCSII standing seam roof

TCSII is one of the most durable metal roofing products available in the world, during corrosion tests it has surpassed all other metal roofs; even copper.

TCSII skylight flashings

TCSII skylight flashings

Because it lasts virtually forever, TCSII demands precision, all the flashings and transitions must be mechanically sealed; that means that all overlapping pieces of metal are folded over twice to make a waterproof  joint.  Caulk and sealant will only last a few years, so any detail that relies on it will fail long before the roof is ready to give up.

There isn’t one drop of caulk on this entire roof.

The shingles you see on the other areas are GAF Timberline Weathered Wood; great shingles.

The zinc coating over the stainless will form a patina in about a year; the final patina will be an even cloudy gray. The panels are shipped with a light protective varnish; the blotches you see are places where my knees and tools have worn  the varnish off’; these spots will disappear in a month or so.

If you would like to learn more give me a call or you can visit http://www.follansbeeroofing.com/products/TCSII.aspx

Follansbee TCSII standing seam roof

Standing seam metal roof with skylights

Follansbee TCSII standing seam roof