Archive for the ‘Virginia roofing contractor’ Category

Hurricanes and Roofs: Northern Virginia Roofing Service

Saturday, August 27th, 2011

In about two hours from now the first rain and wind from Hurricane Irene will be here in Northern Virginia; its going to make a mess.

If you haven’t done so already you have a little time to make sure your gutters are cleared.

Move your lawn furniture in the garage or stack it tightly together and bind it with a rope, bring in anything that can go flying.

Plants in pots will be safest placed against the wall on the ground. Plastic kids toys can easily go flying and break your windows or your neighbors so get them inside too.

When the storm really gets going some of you are going to have roof leaks. When faced with a stream of water dropping out of the ceiling you must resist the urge to go up on your roof to see why.

Don’t Go Up on Your Roof!!!

Relax, everything can be fixed.

Move everything you can away from the the drip and put out some buckets, pots or plastic sheeting to catch the water. You can come up with new and creative ways to catch the water- remember the Mouse Trap board game? Chances are really good that the power is going out and you wont have anything else to do anyway; so have fun with it. Ok, it’s not going to be fun, it’s going to be a miserable couple days, but my point is that there is nothing worth getting hurt over.

My job as a roofer is dangerous on a good day, a panicked homeowner trying to fix their roof in a gale with plastic from their dry cleaning is a recipe for utter disaster. Let it leak, its not worth getting hurt over. Drywall, paint and plaster are all relatively cheap and can easily be replaced; chances are you always hated the color in the dining room and this will be your chance to repaint and love it.

This will certainly be a tough 24 hours; when Hurricanes pass through they are almost always followed by a few days of beautiful weather. The forecast for Sunday through next week shows clear sunny skies; plenty of time for me to fix your roof.

If you have damage to you roof call 703-299-8888 or

email tom@lyonscontracting.com

or text to 571-830-0634

and I’ll be out ASAP after the storm passes.

Charcoal Timberline shingle roof with standing seam copper porch

Tuesday, April 26th, 2011

There are many houses in Arlington and Alexandria that are virtually identical to this one, most were built  50 to 70 years ago; this house was probably on its third or fourth roof. As you can see, the existing light gray shingles are old and worn and are at the end of their life. The Owner of this house will soon outgrow it, so it was important to install a new roof that will protect the property but will also add some curb appeal when the day comes to sell it and move on.

Click on any picture to enlarge:

Shingle roof in need of replacement

Here you can see the pitted and cracked shingles from the side porch.

deteriorated roof shingles

First: Off with the old roof; once the old shingles are removed we inspect the roof deck for rotted or split boards.  Generally these houses are really solid, most of them have old growth 1×6 pine or sometime oak roof decks; the density of the boards resists rot even when the roof is neglected for years. This house needed a few deck boards replaced because of cracking and a little warping; so far these boards have had at least 18,000 roofing nails driven in and pulled out of them and they look like they can take 18,000 more.

old roof removed

When replacing a roof we have to act as if it’s going to rain any minute-even with bright blue skies, we work quickly to cover the house from rain. That’s why we focused on the main house roof first before working on the lower porch roofs.

new Charcoal Timberline shingle roof

The main house is covered first

Once the main house was waterproof I started on the lower porch, to add some curb appeal the Owner opted for a standing seam copper roof on the small front porch. When installing an accent roof like this symmetry and scale are of the utmost importance. I made these 16 oz copper panels in the shop, they divide the roof into five equal segments; if you look around you’ll see metal roofs that were installed from one end of the house to the other, without evenly dividing the roof you wind up with a full size panel on the left and a little skinny panel on the right. Asymmetrical layout can look ridiculous or it can be just a little off , bothering anyone looking at it-even if they don’t know why.

To keep the roof as compact and graceful as possible I turned the standing seam panels up the wall in one continuous seam, the technique takes time and practice but it looks perfect. The panel is never cut into, I fold pleats into the copper and then double lock the seams for a completely waterproof joint that requires no sealant or solder; its taken years to perfect this technique and no I won’t show you how to do it.

wall detail standing seam copper roof

Double folded upstand in standing seam copper roof

At the end of one very long day we have a finished beautiful roof.

charcoal Timberline shingle with copper flashing and standing seam copper roof

Charcoal Timberline shingles with a new standing seam copper roof

standing seam copper roof and shingle roof

Timberline Charcoal with Standing seam copper roof front porch

If you have a house that needs a new roof or a boost in curb appeal give me a call; I’m sure we can figure something out.

PS: Check out Thumbtack, you can find all sorts of businesses there. You can read reviews and find just what you are looking for:
Roof repair and replacement

Thanks for reading,

Tom

703-299-8888

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Skylight Repair

Thursday, January 13th, 2011

Skylights are perfect for adding height to a ceiling; they can make a small cramped room seem 10′ larger and 100 times more inviting. However, skylights are one of the most commonly mistreated items on the roof.

The picture below shows how a remodeling contractor installed a new skylight; instead of using proper and time proven techniques he smeared tar wherever he could. His work lasted about six months before the first leak occurred.

skylight repair

After; I repaired the skylight with new aluminum flashings and replaced all of the tar contaminated shingles. The roof looks better, the skylight doesn’t leak and my metal flashings will keep on doing their job for as long as the roof shingles will last.

skylight flashing repair

Flashing and waterproofing skylights isn’t difficult if you have the skill and the tools, I’ve installed at least 600 skylights in the past 14 years; none have leaked yet. Avoid anyone who says they can stop your leak with caulk or roof cement; it won’t last.

If your skylight is leaking give us a call

Thanks for reading

703-299-8888

Standing Seam Copper Roof

Friday, September 10th, 2010

This is a covered porch on the rear of a house we completely re roofed a few years ago. The structure was built by Harry Braswell, Inc. and is designed to give the owner some covered outdoor space.

The main house roof is covered with GAF Timberline asphalt shingles in Charcoal with a few lower accent roofs in standing seam copper; keeping with the same scheme, copper became the obvious choice for the new porch.

Copper roof layout One very important note here; you’ll notice that the rosin paper and felt are secured with copper nails; I have seen many jobs where the underlayment was installed with steel nails, cap nails or even staples. Using anything but copper nails will lead to a failure; copper is soft, steel nails and staples will eventually wear through the copper panels as the panels expand and contract over the nail heads and staple crowns. If you are considering installing a metal roof ask your contractor how he installs his felt and paper, if he says staples or cap nails you should find another roofer.

The black paper is 30# asphalt felt, it provides temporary waterproofing if it happens to rain before the job is finished; the pink paper you see is Red Rosin Paper, its job is to isolate the copper panels from the asphalt felt. I could write pages about why copper needs to be kept away from felt paper but I’ll save that for another post.

standing seam copper roof eave detail As the panels are laid out across the roof they are locked to each other and then are folded over the copper drip edge at the eave edge of the roof. This curved eave end detail you see here is virtually unknown on this side of the Atlantic. Although this detail is barely visible from the ground I think it adds a “hidden jewel” aspect to the job.

“Can you show me how to do it??” Sadly, no; the only two people I’m teaching this to are currently in Kindergarten and Pre-School, and they are going to have to wait at least 12 more years to learn it.

Snow guards on standing seam copper roof After the eaves and seams are completed we installed new snow guards. These bronze guards clamp onto the standing seams and keep ice and snow from sliding off the roof in large sheets. There are many different designs for this purpose, guards can be casted to look like eagles, pineapples, fleur de lis, and clovers.

Copper gutter and standing seam copper roof And finally a copper gutter to carry the rainwater away.

If your house needs a hidden (or not so hidden) jewel you should call me, I’ll be happy to help.

Thanks for reading,

Tom

New Flat Roof with Tapered Insulation

Thursday, August 5th, 2010

Flat roof holding waterThis is an EPDM (rubber) roof; it was installed over an existing built up (tar and gravel) roof; due to a number of factors it consistently held about 4″ of water on its surface. Although the name can be deceiving, a flat roof needs slope; not a lot, just enough to encourage the water to drain off to a gutter or roof drain within 24-36 hours after a rain. This house used to hold about 2″ of water all year round; if the owner wanted to he could have started a brine shrimp farm.

Old roof removedAfter the EPDM was peeled back it became obvious that the roof has been leaking for a very long time. The brown insulation board the previous roofer installed over the tar and gravel roof has basically dissolved. Now only rusted screws remain, holding fast to a charge that has since washed away beneath their once tightly drawn heads; decades spent diligently doing a job that had been doomed to fail. (I don’t think anyone reads these posts; prove me wrong- send a text to 571-830-zero six three four and I’ll send you a gift card)

When new roofs are laid on top of old roofs this happens more times than not; old flashings, lumpy surfaces and less than ideal substrates make it difficult to achieve good drainage and solid details. In fourteen years I have never done a recover; every roof we replace has the old roof removed first.

old roof removed All of the EPDM and the last of the tar and gravel are being removed from the roof. Once all the old roof comes off we check for rotted decking and loose boards.

tapered insulation and skylight curbsThe existing skylights were mounted on flat curbs; all roof components need slope. Because the old curbs were perfectly flat the glass skylight lenses leaked. I built new curbs with a 15 degree slope, now water and debris will wash off.

You can also see the first run of tapered insulation being installed; it may be hard to tell but the insulation is thicker on the right side of the picture than it is on the left. Tapered Polyisocyanurate insulation board is basically 4′x4′ modules that are sloped in one direction, we install these in various sequences to add slope to a flat roof where there is none. Installing tapered insulation is far less expensive than adding new framing or moving rafters and achieves the exact same results; it also adds some pretty good r-value to the roof assembly.

Tapered roof insulationWith the insulation installed we now have a perfect surface to install our new roof; the roof now rises from .5″ at the gutter to almost 9″ at the front wall. There will be absolutely no ponding water on this roof or on the skylights.

TPO roof over tapered insulation board This is TPO; its a thermoplastic roofing membrane that comes in a few colors but white is by far the most popular. TPO requires no glue or sealants, the seams and flashings are welded with a hot air welder; once properly welded they require no further attention–ever. The bright white surface will keep the upper floors of the house a lot cooler than the black EPDM roof that was in place before. We also replaced the skylights with new energy efficient lenses, these are lo-e and have UV blocking properties that let sunlight in but block out the solar wavelength that brings heat.

This picture was taken at the end of the first day; although not 100% complete there is no danger of this roof leaking if it rained over night (which it did). I was happy to see in the morning that the roof had no water on it and we were able to go right back to work.

Flat roof Before Before

TPO flat roof with sky lightsAfter

TPO flat roof with skylight flashings

This roof will last much longer than its predecessor; proper layout, flashing details and planning can give a roof a chance to live up to its potential.

If you have a problem with ponding water on your roof, give us a call.

Thanks,

Tom

703-299-8888

Hail Damaged Roof

Monday, May 17th, 2010

A quick Q & A when it comes to hail damage and your home:

What does hail damage on my roof look like?

Asphalt shingle hail damage

Asphalt shingle hail damage

You can see the dark spots where the granules are knocked off, this is where the shingle will start to fall apart. As the sun makes the asphalt base brittle more and more granules will fall off. Within a pretty short amount of time your roof will look like its 30 years old.


What happens when hail hits my house?

If the hail is large enough and flying fast enough it can dent your siding and gutters, it can crack your skylights and even make holes in vinyl siding.

What about my roof?

When hail strikes asphalt shingles if can blow off the granules on the face of the shingle. The face of asphalt shingles is made up of ceramic granules, the granules give the shingle it’s color but more importantly they protect the asphalt base of the shingle from the sun. When asphalt is exposed to the sun it will age exponentially, the suns ultraviolet rays make the asphalt in the shingle brittle. When the shingles become brittle they fail; you have seen old cracked neglected asphalt driveways, now think of a parking lot or driveway that has been sealed. Same principle, the sealant on the driveway does the same job that the tiny granules do on the roof.

My roof looks fine from the ground…

Most of them do, however the only way to check for hail damage is to go up on the roof and look. If the hood of your car is dented, if you can see dents in the gutters or if there is dented or cracked siding then chances are the roof took a beating too.

What do I do now?

First; protect your house. If the skylight was shattered or a vent was torn off in the wind you should call a licensed roofing contractor to cover anything that might lead to more damage to your house.

Second; call and file an insurance claim. If your house has a lot of damage your insurer will send out a claims adjuster. If the hail damage is widespread it might take a while to get a representative to you. After big storm events independent adjusters will come in from all over the country to work through the claims; most claims are settled within three weeks.

Third; get estimates for repairs. It will make the process a lot easier if you have an estimate for the repairs when the adjuster meets you at the house. The adjuster will make determinations of what he will cover and what he won’t; the insurance company may pay for an entire new roof or they may pay for re-roofing one damaged area.

Can you replace the roof, gutters and siding?

Yes we can. We do it all the time.

Do I have to replace my roof or siding now?

No, you don’t. However prices for roofing, siding and gutters go up every year, your insurance company is paying you a fractional amount of what the work costs today. By not replacing the damaged parts of your house now you will be left to pick up the difference later. Also some insurance companies have cut off dates for allowing claims; if you wait too long you may be out of luck. Also, selling a house with hail damage can be difficult.

Which contractor should I hire?

Hire someone local, hire a contractor that has an investment in your satisfaction. When large disasters happen contractors (called storm-chasers) will be driving here with both feet on the gas from all over the country; they skip town as soon as the work dries up or until an even bigger storm hits somewhere else. Many storm-chasers do good, honest work, but some leave homeowners with shoddy repairs and material suppliers with piles of unpaid invoices. You may have heard of the “tail light warranty”; that means the warranty on his work is good as long as you can see the tail lights on his truck.

Hire a contractor with a fixed local business address, a good Better Business Bureau rating, a website, a CheckBook rating, a stellar Angie’s List Rating, a long local reference list and a vested interest in your happiness. Although the guy from Oklahoma may say all the right things he certainly wont be heading back to see you if there is a problem.

Row House Flat Roof

Thursday, May 13th, 2010

We just finished these row houses. I’m writing about them because unlike the hundreds we have already done these are more like bathtubs than roofs.

Usually, flat roofed houses have at least one side that is open with parapet walls (parapets are walls that are higher than the roof) on either two or three sides. The slightly pitched roofs usually slope toward the area where the parapet is missing, in place of the parapet there is a gutter to carry all of the rainwater away. These houses have had additions built on where that open area once was.

Flat roof with ponding water

Flat roof with ponding water

This vinyl sided area you see was built where the roof used to drain into a gutter. A drain was installed on the left side to handle the rain and melting snow. The drain failed during a huge snowstorm and water came into the house on all three levels.

The roof also has a pretty deep depression, when I was done shoveling off the snow I found about three inches of standing water right in the center of the roof; this roof has to fill up with at least 4″ of water before the first drop ever starts to flow into the drain; not cool. Standing water will kill a flat roof in no time. Would you want to get into a tub with 3″ of last nights water in it? Besides being a mosquito day spa, standing water on the roof starts to smell as leaves and debris start to accumulate and it begins to turn into a pond, a pond without a peeing cherub.

Solving the ponding problem:

Tapered insulation is a dense foam 4′x4′ board that has a slope heading in one direction. We use these 4′ square boards in different combinations to add slope to a retrograde roof.

Tapered insulation

Tapered insulation

You can see how the insulation slopes from 1/2″ on the right to 3″ on the left; by the time the insulation is installed across the roof it will be 6″ high; sloping all the way down to 1/2″.

Tapered insulation

Tapered insulation

The insulation is installed and the first course of the White TPO membrane is being installed.

TPO scupper drain

TPO scupper drain

Since this roof has wall all around it I fabricated a scupper drain, the square plate you see is attached to a stainless steel tube, the tube runs through the brick wall to the outside. This is just like the drain in your tub.

TPO scupper drain

TPO scupper drain

This is the same scupper drain from the back. Its made from TPO coated galvanized steel so we can weld our roofing directly to it. The square tube is made from stainless steel and I solder it to the TPO coated metal. This will pass through the brick parapet wall and carry the water away.

Flat roof before

Flat roof before

Before:

When I took this picture it hadn’t rained for two weeks but the roof still had an inch of water on it.

TPO flat roof with tapered insulation

TPO flat roof with tapered insulation

You can see how the roof pitches directly to the drain, no more pond, no more leaks.

Scupper drain and conductor head

Scupper drain and conductor head

This is where the scupper drain comes through the brick wall, I installed a white aluminum cover plate over the drain tube. Then I installed a conductor head to direct the water down the downspout to the ground.

Here is the other project that we finished the same week:

Before:

Flat roof

Flat roof

This one also failed miserably during a snow storm. Instead of installing a proper flat roof they chose to use a mixture of shingles, flat roof membranes and tar. It worked about as well as you could expect.

During:

New insulation

New insulation

Old roof removed and new insulation installed.

new White TPO flat roof

new White TPO flat roof

New white TPO membrane and new scupper drain installed and ready to face another winter.

TPO scupper drain

TPO scupper drain

My new drain with a plate and conductor head.

Old roof drain

Old roof drain

This was the old drain, the contractor just knocked the bricks out, laid in some bits of metal and tar and called it a day. I was actually surprised it lasted as long as it did.

There are ways to properly address any roof, no matter what the previous owner or roofer did we can always fix it.

If you are having trouble with your roof call me any time.

Standing Seam Terne Metal Roof

Thursday, January 28th, 2010
Standing seam roof to shingle roof

Standing seam roof to shingle roof

This is TCS II; it has a core of stainless steel with a zinc/tin overlay. Look at a dime; copper in the middle and shiny nickel/chromium on the outside; TCSII is bonded and laminated in very much the same way.

Why laminate the stainless you ask? Well, stainless steel stays bright and shiny forever, thats not the look most architects are looking for. The zinc overlay on the stainless core starts out shiny and then develops a patina; a light gray color. By marrying these two metals together you get the best of both worlds; you get the longevity of stainless steel and the beauty of zinc.

TCSII standing seam roof

TCSII standing seam roof

TCSII is one of the most durable metal roofing products available in the world, during corrosion tests it has surpassed all other metal roofs; even copper.

TCSII skylight flashings

TCSII skylight flashings

Because it lasts virtually forever, TCSII demands precision, all the flashings and transitions must be mechanically sealed; that means that all overlapping pieces of metal are folded over twice to make a waterproof  joint.  Caulk and sealant will only last a few years, so any detail that relies on it will fail long before the roof is ready to give up.

There isn’t one drop of caulk on this entire roof.

The shingles you see on the other areas are GAF Timberline Weathered Wood; great shingles.

The zinc coating over the stainless will form a patina in about a year; the final patina will be an even cloudy gray. The panels are shipped with a light protective varnish; the blotches you see are places where my knees and tools have worn  the varnish off’; these spots will disappear in a month or so.

If you would like to learn more give me a call or you can visit http://www.follansbeeroofing.com/products/TCSII.aspx

Follansbee TCSII standing seam roof

Standing seam metal roof with skylights

Follansbee TCSII standing seam roof