Archive for the ‘Roof leak alexandria’ Category

Charcoal Timberline shingle roof with standing seam copper porch

Tuesday, April 26th, 2011

There are many houses in Arlington and Alexandria that are virtually identical to this one, most were built  50 to 70 years ago; this house was probably on its third or fourth roof. As you can see, the existing light gray shingles are old and worn and are at the end of their life. The Owner of this house will soon outgrow it, so it was important to install a new roof that will protect the property but will also add some curb appeal when the day comes to sell it and move on.

Click on any picture to enlarge:

Shingle roof in need of replacement

Here you can see the pitted and cracked shingles from the side porch.

deteriorated roof shingles

First: Off with the old roof; once the old shingles are removed we inspect the roof deck for rotted or split boards.  Generally these houses are really solid, most of them have old growth 1×6 pine or sometime oak roof decks; the density of the boards resists rot even when the roof is neglected for years. This house needed a few deck boards replaced because of cracking and a little warping; so far these boards have had at least 18,000 roofing nails driven in and pulled out of them and they look like they can take 18,000 more.

old roof removed

When replacing a roof we have to act as if it’s going to rain any minute-even with bright blue skies, we work quickly to cover the house from rain. That’s why we focused on the main house roof first before working on the lower porch roofs.

new Charcoal Timberline shingle roof

The main house is covered first

Once the main house was waterproof I started on the lower porch, to add some curb appeal the Owner opted for a standing seam copper roof on the small front porch. When installing an accent roof like this symmetry and scale are of the utmost importance. I made these 16 oz copper panels in the shop, they divide the roof into five equal segments; if you look around you’ll see metal roofs that were installed from one end of the house to the other, without evenly dividing the roof you wind up with a full size panel on the left and a little skinny panel on the right. Asymmetrical layout can look ridiculous or it can be just a little off , bothering anyone looking at it-even if they don’t know why.

To keep the roof as compact and graceful as possible I turned the standing seam panels up the wall in one continuous seam, the technique takes time and practice but it looks perfect. The panel is never cut into, I fold pleats into the copper and then double lock the seams for a completely waterproof joint that requires no sealant or solder; its taken years to perfect this technique and no I won’t show you how to do it.

wall detail standing seam copper roof

Double folded upstand in standing seam copper roof

At the end of one very long day we have a finished beautiful roof.

charcoal Timberline shingle with copper flashing and standing seam copper roof

Charcoal Timberline shingles with a new standing seam copper roof

standing seam copper roof and shingle roof

Timberline Charcoal with Standing seam copper roof front porch

If you have a house that needs a new roof or a boost in curb appeal give me a call; I’m sure we can figure something out.

PS: Check out Thumbtack, you can find all sorts of businesses there. You can read reviews and find just what you are looking for:
Roof repair and replacement

Thanks for reading,

Tom

703-299-8888

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Shingle roof repair or replacement? What’s best?

Wednesday, March 9th, 2011

This roof took a beating in high winds. When looking over the necessary repairs it became obvious that replacing the missing and damaged shingles would make the roof look terrible. The roof as you see it below is around 15 years old, and like most things left outside for 15 years, it has a good amount of algae and dirt accumulated on it. Installing new, clean shingles into a dirty roof would look terrible.

Click on any picture to enlarge:

wind damaged shingle roof

Wind damaged shingle roof

The homeowner decided she didn’t want to see the front of her house looking even worse than it does with the missing shingles. The one new shingle from a previous repair (you can see it above the chimney) is glaringly obvious, based upon the age and probable plummet in curb appeal, my client decided to replace the roof.

repaired roof with one new shingle

Rear roof with one new shingle

Step one: Tear off. After the old shingles were removed we replaced some rotted and cracked pieces of roof decking.

shingle roof tear off

old shingles removed and rotted decking being replaced

Step two: We installed new drip edge and waterproof underlayment.

shingle roof underlayment

installing waterproof underlayment

Step three: We install new GAF Timberline shingles in Pewter Gray. We also installed new copper flashings on the chimney, new pipe collars on the plumbing vents, a new ridge vent and ridge caps. We also reset the satellite dish, cleaned and re nailed the gutters and flushed out the downspouts.

pewter gray shingle roof

TImberline Pewter Gray shingle roof

Step four: Final clean up, we sweep the yard, the flower beds and the driveway with a magnetic nail bar (yellow handled bar) to pick up any bits of metal left behind. My goal is to leave nothing but a beautiful new roof behind.

GAF Timberline Pewter Gray

GAF Timberline Pewter Gray shingle roof

There are about 165 more steps than what I’ve shown you here; but I’ve found that most homeowners don’t want to read about psi settings on the compressor or flashing techniques. However, if you want to hire a roofer who cares about compressor settings, european flashing techniques and making your house beautiful then you should call me; I promise I won’t bore you with all the details (unless you want me to).

Thanks for reading,

Tom

703-299-8888

From metal to membrane- low slope roof replacement

Monday, March 7th, 2011

This is standing seam tin roof, probably around 40 years old.  During high winds the eave edge of the roof was peeled back and flipped over on itself; the owner did his best to push it back and laid bricks across it to hold it down. When the panels flipped over it split the metal along the seams, there was really no repair option, the roof needed to be replaced.

The majority of the roof is a charcoal asphalt shingle, this area was the only one with metal. This portion of the roof has a very low slope, too low to replace the metal roof with shingles. This area is also invisible from the ground so there really wasn’t any reason to install another metal roof. My client chose TPO membrane, TPO is a bright white material that will perform perfectly in this application.

The pictures below will take you step by step through the job, click on any to enlarge.

wind damaged metal roof

We removed all of the old metal roofing and found that the roof decking was all in great shape. The panels you see being laid out is 1″ thick polyisocyanurate rigid insulation board; it has two functions, first it protects the roofing membrane from the rough bumpy roof deck and it also provides good R-value.

polyisocyanurate insulation board

We fastened the insulation board with plates and screws, the round silver plates act almost like washers, giving more surface area for the center screw to clamp the insulation tightly to the roof.

fastening iso board

insulation being fastened to the roof deck

TPO membrane comes in a variety of widths to suit most common applications. To keep seams to a minimum we chose a 10′ x 100′ roll of TPO; it is secured to the roof with screw and seam plates; these are smaller than the insulation plates but perform the exact same function.

TPO roofing

TPO membrane being fastened to the roof

The second course of TPO is installed  and the overlap is welded with a hot air welder; once welded the seam is as strong as the field of the membrane. This seam requires no glue, no caulk or sealant and no maintenance.

single seam in TPO roof

The one and only seam in the roof

The edges of the roof are secured with drip edge, it’s an L shaped piece of painted aluminum that waterproofs the roof edge and secures the membrane at the perimeter. You can also see a TPO pipe flashing installed and welded to the membrane.

Drip edge and TPO pipe flashing

TPO pipe boot and drip edge

After the drip edge is installed we cover the fasteners with white TPO cover flashing. This entire roof system is designed to overlap and enclose all exposed fasteners, this will make a roof virtually maintenance free.

We use matching shingle ridge caps at the peak of the roof, this will look perfect from the street.

All done; this roof will provide good service for a least 20 years with minimal maintenance from the owner. The bright white membrane surface and insulation board will also keep the upper floor cooler in the summer and a little bit warmer in the winter.

TPO roof

TPO roof

completed TPO roof

Historic Restoration

Friday, January 14th, 2011

This was one of my favorite projects, the house is around 115 years old  and is on the National Historic Register. Although beautiful on the inside; the exterior, specifically the roof, had been neglected. 90% of the roof is completely out of sight so it was easy for deterioration to get out of control. The client called with a small leak in the front part of the house.

Before: you can see the upper flat roof is covered in blisters and various peeling coatings.

The front has a small mansard  (learn more: François Mansart 1598–1666) which is a steeply sloped, almost wall like roof. This small roof section has three round louvered  vents made from tin set into asphalt shingles, the vents had missing and rusted through areas and were contributing to the leaks. The vents were probably original to the house but the asphalt shingles were probably installed 15 years ago when the original slate roof developed leaks.

Missing pieces had left the roof open to driving rain:

Since the house is registered all architectural elements need to be replaced exactly or with period specific materials. If you can see it from the street it has to look like a snapshot in time. The asphalt roof can be easily replaced with slate but the dormer vents were more of a challenge.

We removed one vent to bring back to the shop for precise measurement; of course we closed the hole in the roof.

After 3 months we had three new copper reproductions, these are identical in every way down to 1/16th of an inch to the originals. Since these are made from 16oz and 20oz copper they wont need paint and they’ll never rust.

round louver vent

Now the easy part: We replaced the old black flat roof with new White TPO over dense insulation board. This roof will make the upper floors of the house much more comfortable in the summer by reflecting most of the sun.

The mansard was covered with small 12×6 Buckingham slates; these slates will easily last 100+ years. Once the copper vents were set in place the whole job really came together. Eventually the copper louvers will turn to a bronze color, 10-15 years from now they will start to develop a green patina. In 100 years the roof will be replaced again, I hope the next roofer enjoys the job as much as I did.

You can click on any picture to enlarge it.

Thanks for reading,

Tom

703-299-8888

Chimney Flashing Repair

Friday, October 1st, 2010

One of the top sources for roof leaks is the flashing around the chimney.  Making and installing flashings on the roof is part art and science and it takes a considerable amount of skill to do properly; I’ve found that the art end of the job is what gets people in trouble. The following pictures show how we do our work; the flashings we make for chimneys and skylights are bulletproof and have never caused us to return to a clients house again, I also think they are lovely to look at.

We measure the length and width of your chimney and the slope of your roof. The flashings are custom made in our sheet metal shop for your chimney. Depending on the type of roof we can make the flashings from zinc, copper, stainless steel, aluminum and lead coated copper; they can also be painted any color you wish.  We can fabricate flashings of any size no matter how big or small your chimney or skylight.

copper chimney flashing

Once the flashings are made they are sent out to the project with all other necessary materials. The pictures below show the old flashing and shingles being removed, some rotted wood being replaced and finally the installation of waterproof underlayment.

old chimney flashing repair

The old flashing is rusted through tin

repair of chimney flashing

new piece of 1x6 roof decking where the other had rotted

waterproof underlayment on chimney

Installing waterproof underlayment around the chimney

Most elements on a slate or shingle roof are installed from the bottom up, here we start by installing the lowest flashing called the apron.

copper apron flashing

Installing the copper apron flashing

Next we install step flashings, step flashing are small “L” shaped pieces of metal that are laced in to each course of shingles as they climb up the side of the chimney.

chimney flashing repair

Step flashings are installed in each course of shingles

This is the most critical piece of the entire assembly, the pan flashing does most of the work in shedding water. We form our pan flashings with a rounded bottom edge (vs. a sharp fold) to keep this area dry; creased or square folded metal can hold water which leads to corrosion and leakage. All of the seams we use are double locked and are completely waterproof, no matter what nature throws at this house the chimney will not leak.

copper chimney flashing

Copper pan flashing being installed behind the chimney

The pieces that cover the step flashing along the sides of the chimney are called counter-flashings, here it is being trimmed to fit beneath the pan and over the apron flashing.

chimney flashing repair

Counter flashing being installed on the chimney sides

The final step is applying a bead of high quality sealant to the joint between the new flashings and the masonry.

Chimney flashing repair

Completed copper chimney flashing repair

This roof will be good for another five years, when replacement of the roof becomes necessary our flashings can be reused. If your chimney or skylight is leaking we have a bulletproof solution, call any time and we will be on our way.

Tom 703-299-8888

P.S. If you are out our of our service area we can make and ship a complete skylight or chimney flashing kit to you. All you need to tell us is the measurements of the chimney or skylight and the slope of your roof and we can have it on the way to you in a day or two. Just call 703-299-8888

New Flat Roof with Tapered Insulation

Thursday, August 5th, 2010

Flat roof holding waterThis is an EPDM (rubber) roof; it was installed over an existing built up (tar and gravel) roof; due to a number of factors it consistently held about 4″ of water on its surface. Although the name can be deceiving, a flat roof needs slope; not a lot, just enough to encourage the water to drain off to a gutter or roof drain within 24-36 hours after a rain. This house used to hold about 2″ of water all year round; if the owner wanted to he could have started a brine shrimp farm.

Old roof removedAfter the EPDM was peeled back it became obvious that the roof has been leaking for a very long time. The brown insulation board the previous roofer installed over the tar and gravel roof has basically dissolved. Now only rusted screws remain, holding fast to a charge that has since washed away beneath their once tightly drawn heads; decades spent diligently doing a job that had been doomed to fail. (I don’t think anyone reads these posts; prove me wrong- send a text to 571-830-zero six three four and I’ll send you a gift card)

When new roofs are laid on top of old roofs this happens more times than not; old flashings, lumpy surfaces and less than ideal substrates make it difficult to achieve good drainage and solid details. In fourteen years I have never done a recover; every roof we replace has the old roof removed first.

old roof removed All of the EPDM and the last of the tar and gravel are being removed from the roof. Once all the old roof comes off we check for rotted decking and loose boards.

tapered insulation and skylight curbsThe existing skylights were mounted on flat curbs; all roof components need slope. Because the old curbs were perfectly flat the glass skylight lenses leaked. I built new curbs with a 15 degree slope, now water and debris will wash off.

You can also see the first run of tapered insulation being installed; it may be hard to tell but the insulation is thicker on the right side of the picture than it is on the left. Tapered Polyisocyanurate insulation board is basically 4′x4′ modules that are sloped in one direction, we install these in various sequences to add slope to a flat roof where there is none. Installing tapered insulation is far less expensive than adding new framing or moving rafters and achieves the exact same results; it also adds some pretty good r-value to the roof assembly.

Tapered roof insulationWith the insulation installed we now have a perfect surface to install our new roof; the roof now rises from .5″ at the gutter to almost 9″ at the front wall. There will be absolutely no ponding water on this roof or on the skylights.

TPO roof over tapered insulation board This is TPO; its a thermoplastic roofing membrane that comes in a few colors but white is by far the most popular. TPO requires no glue or sealants, the seams and flashings are welded with a hot air welder; once properly welded they require no further attention–ever. The bright white surface will keep the upper floors of the house a lot cooler than the black EPDM roof that was in place before. We also replaced the skylights with new energy efficient lenses, these are lo-e and have UV blocking properties that let sunlight in but block out the solar wavelength that brings heat.

This picture was taken at the end of the first day; although not 100% complete there is no danger of this roof leaking if it rained over night (which it did). I was happy to see in the morning that the roof had no water on it and we were able to go right back to work.

Flat roof Before Before

TPO flat roof with sky lightsAfter

TPO flat roof with skylight flashings

This roof will last much longer than its predecessor; proper layout, flashing details and planning can give a roof a chance to live up to its potential.

If you have a problem with ponding water on your roof, give us a call.

Thanks,

Tom

703-299-8888

Row House Flat Roof

Thursday, May 13th, 2010

We just finished these row houses. I’m writing about them because unlike the hundreds we have already done these are more like bathtubs than roofs.

Usually, flat roofed houses have at least one side that is open with parapet walls (parapets are walls that are higher than the roof) on either two or three sides. The slightly pitched roofs usually slope toward the area where the parapet is missing, in place of the parapet there is a gutter to carry all of the rainwater away. These houses have had additions built on where that open area once was.

Flat roof with ponding water

Flat roof with ponding water

This vinyl sided area you see was built where the roof used to drain into a gutter. A drain was installed on the left side to handle the rain and melting snow. The drain failed during a huge snowstorm and water came into the house on all three levels.

The roof also has a pretty deep depression, when I was done shoveling off the snow I found about three inches of standing water right in the center of the roof; this roof has to fill up with at least 4″ of water before the first drop ever starts to flow into the drain; not cool. Standing water will kill a flat roof in no time. Would you want to get into a tub with 3″ of last nights water in it? Besides being a mosquito day spa, standing water on the roof starts to smell as leaves and debris start to accumulate and it begins to turn into a pond, a pond without a peeing cherub.

Solving the ponding problem:

Tapered insulation is a dense foam 4′x4′ board that has a slope heading in one direction. We use these 4′ square boards in different combinations to add slope to a retrograde roof.

Tapered insulation

Tapered insulation

You can see how the insulation slopes from 1/2″ on the right to 3″ on the left; by the time the insulation is installed across the roof it will be 6″ high; sloping all the way down to 1/2″.

Tapered insulation

Tapered insulation

The insulation is installed and the first course of the White TPO membrane is being installed.

TPO scupper drain

TPO scupper drain

Since this roof has wall all around it I fabricated a scupper drain, the square plate you see is attached to a stainless steel tube, the tube runs through the brick wall to the outside. This is just like the drain in your tub.

TPO scupper drain

TPO scupper drain

This is the same scupper drain from the back. Its made from TPO coated galvanized steel so we can weld our roofing directly to it. The square tube is made from stainless steel and I solder it to the TPO coated metal. This will pass through the brick parapet wall and carry the water away.

Flat roof before

Flat roof before

Before:

When I took this picture it hadn’t rained for two weeks but the roof still had an inch of water on it.

TPO flat roof with tapered insulation

TPO flat roof with tapered insulation

You can see how the roof pitches directly to the drain, no more pond, no more leaks.

Scupper drain and conductor head

Scupper drain and conductor head

This is where the scupper drain comes through the brick wall, I installed a white aluminum cover plate over the drain tube. Then I installed a conductor head to direct the water down the downspout to the ground.

Here is the other project that we finished the same week:

Before:

Flat roof

Flat roof

This one also failed miserably during a snow storm. Instead of installing a proper flat roof they chose to use a mixture of shingles, flat roof membranes and tar. It worked about as well as you could expect.

During:

New insulation

New insulation

Old roof removed and new insulation installed.

new White TPO flat roof

new White TPO flat roof

New white TPO membrane and new scupper drain installed and ready to face another winter.

TPO scupper drain

TPO scupper drain

My new drain with a plate and conductor head.

Old roof drain

Old roof drain

This was the old drain, the contractor just knocked the bricks out, laid in some bits of metal and tar and called it a day. I was actually surprised it lasted as long as it did.

There are ways to properly address any roof, no matter what the previous owner or roofer did we can always fix it.

If you are having trouble with your roof call me any time.

Long Term Roof Leaks

Monday, December 28th, 2009
Rotted Roof decking

Rotted Roof decking

How long has it been leaking? Its my first question when someone calls about their roof; and sometimes its hard for my clients to answer.

“Not that long”; is by far the most common answer.

However, “Not that long” can mean a week , or it can mean three months and it can mean four years; it depends on the clients perception of time; sometimes the memory devices people use to date the problem can be quite entertaining. The all time longest was an elderly woman who was able to trace the start of her roof problem with the birth of her grandson in 1999; she called me in 2007.

Water damage happens slowly, then all at once.

Water intrusion is unique in the way it damages a house. Usually roofs don’t fail catastrophically, it starts small and slowly gets worse.

The faster you get to the problem the cheaper it will be to fix. If the leaky roof is ignored the damage  and cost for repairs grow exponentially; what might cost $565.00 to repair today could turn into $5,650.00 within three months. If water is allowed to come into the structure for extended periods you not only must repair the problem that caused the leak, but sometimes everything below the leak.  By the time three rainy months have passed  the insulation in the attic, plywood roof decking, rafters, drywall, electrical outlets, lighting and flooring may have been ruined. There are also mold and insect problems that come up when roofs are let go.

If you are having roof problems don’t wait to call; the sooner you deal with it the cheaper it will be. If cash is tight and you can’t pay for it all, ask us for help. If I can afford it I might be able to extend your time to pay. The universe has been good to me and i find that when I am good to others I’m rarely let down by them.

Leaking roof and rotted decking

Leaking roof and rotted decking

Ice Dam

Sunday, December 20th, 2009
Ice dam section view

Ice dam section view

Ice dams occur when temperatures are low and there are a few inches of snow on the roof. The only way to make it stop is by removing the ice and giving the water a place to flow safely off the roof.

It is extraordinarily dangerous work, so if you are going to do it on your own please wait until you can get a friend to help.

You can also hire a roofing contractor to do the work for you.

The right weather conditions for ice dams is usually when outside air temperatures are in the low 20s (°F) for several days with several inches of snow on the roof.

Research shows keeping the attic air temperature below freezing when the outside air temperature is in the low 20s can reduce the occurrence of ice dams. Research has also shown that sun exposure in the winter has little effect on attic air temperature. Warm air from living spaces below penetrating into the attic is usually the culprit in the formation of ice dams.

roof_with_ice_dam

low-slope-roof-ice-dam

Edit 2/14/10

Watching the news for any more than 25 minutes will have pains shooting down your left arm; their job is to terrify you. They want you upset so you stay tuned during the Folger’s Coffee commercial. Most of what they are saying about the snow on your roof is pretty much all wrong.

When to worry:

1) You have water coming in through the tops of your windows or water coming in along the outside walls. If water is leaking into your house you must stop it, the only way to do that is to remove the huge chunks of ice that have grown along your gutter.

2) You heard an unmistakable cracking sound and then you saw a crack in the drywall at the ceiling or wall. If you saw or heard anything like that then the roof you are under is over loaded. NOTE: Residential roofs almost never fail catastrophically, under the current snow load you have a better chance of winning the lottery than you do of having your roof wind up in your basement.

When not to worry:

1) If your roof isn’t leaking now then chances are it probably won’t.

2) You have huge piles of ice on your gutter; it will melt, relax. The worst that can happen is that the gutter falls off, move the glass patio table out of the way so nothing else gets damaged.

If you are having leaking call us, we can help. Dont waste your money hiring someone to remove the snow from your roof because the anchor man with the comb-over  scared you into it.

When the snow and ice are gone you can call me to inspect for any damage.

Tom

Roof in a Can

Wednesday, October 7th, 2009

This is one of those classic examples of a “Roof in a Can”.

Roof in a Can is a term we came up with when describing a repair job we’ve seen; it’s when the person working on the roof can’t figure out the right way to do something so he just squirts caulk over the problem. I have a collection of these pics somewhere, I’ll put them up someday.

Before:

Leaking pipe collar and caulk

Leaking pipe collar and caulk

These plumbing vents are really close together; too close for the installer to use two pipe collars. The pipe collar is installed on the pipe on the left, the pipe on the right got the Roof in a Can treatment.

I would love to know how the person decided which pipe got the collar and which one got the caulk. Flip a coin? Did he ask a coworker? Did he think the larger pipe was mocking him?  Maybe he just wanted the smaller pipe to have the collar, pulling for the underdog on the roof.

copper pipe flashing

copper pipe flashing

This took me about thirty minutes; it’s made out of 16oz copper and will last for the next three roofs. No caulk to dry out and crack, just copper and lead solder. Solid.

IMG_4451

There they stand ready to face the weather again. Both pipes treated with practical dignity; flashed with copper and installed with pride.

Caulk is not a roof and caulk doesn’t last, don’t let someone “repair” your roof with a caulking gun.

If you have leaking pipes on your roof give us a call.

Tom