Archive for the ‘arlington VA roofing contractor’ Category

New Flat Roof with Tapered Insulation

Thursday, August 5th, 2010

Flat roof holding waterThis is an EPDM (rubber) roof; it was installed over an existing built up (tar and gravel) roof; due to a number of factors it consistently held about 4″ of water on its surface. Although the name can be deceiving, a flat roof needs slope; not a lot, just enough to encourage the water to drain off to a gutter or roof drain within 24-36 hours after a rain. This house used to hold about 2″ of water all year round; if the owner wanted to he could have started a brine shrimp farm.

Old roof removedAfter the EPDM was peeled back it became obvious that the roof has been leaking for a very long time. The brown insulation board the previous roofer installed over the tar and gravel roof has basically dissolved. Now only rusted screws remain, holding fast to a charge that has since washed away beneath their once tightly drawn heads; decades spent diligently doing a job that had been doomed to fail. (I don’t think anyone reads these posts; prove me wrong- send a text to 571-830-zero six three four and I’ll send you a gift card)

When new roofs are laid on top of old roofs this happens more times than not; old flashings, lumpy surfaces and less than ideal substrates make it difficult to achieve good drainage and solid details. In fourteen years I have never done a recover; every roof we replace has the old roof removed first.

old roof removed All of the EPDM and the last of the tar and gravel are being removed from the roof. Once all the old roof comes off we check for rotted decking and loose boards.

tapered insulation and skylight curbsThe existing skylights were mounted on flat curbs; all roof components need slope. Because the old curbs were perfectly flat the glass skylight lenses leaked. I built new curbs with a 15 degree slope, now water and debris will wash off.

You can also see the first run of tapered insulation being installed; it may be hard to tell but the insulation is thicker on the right side of the picture than it is on the left. Tapered Polyisocyanurate insulation board is basically 4′x4′ modules that are sloped in one direction, we install these in various sequences to add slope to a flat roof where there is none. Installing tapered insulation is far less expensive than adding new framing or moving rafters and achieves the exact same results; it also adds some pretty good r-value to the roof assembly.

Tapered roof insulationWith the insulation installed we now have a perfect surface to install our new roof; the roof now rises from .5″ at the gutter to almost 9″ at the front wall. There will be absolutely no ponding water on this roof or on the skylights.

TPO roof over tapered insulation board This is TPO; its a thermoplastic roofing membrane that comes in a few colors but white is by far the most popular. TPO requires no glue or sealants, the seams and flashings are welded with a hot air welder; once properly welded they require no further attention–ever. The bright white surface will keep the upper floors of the house a lot cooler than the black EPDM roof that was in place before. We also replaced the skylights with new energy efficient lenses, these are lo-e and have UV blocking properties that let sunlight in but block out the solar wavelength that brings heat.

This picture was taken at the end of the first day; although not 100% complete there is no danger of this roof leaking if it rained over night (which it did). I was happy to see in the morning that the roof had no water on it and we were able to go right back to work.

Flat roof Before Before

TPO flat roof with sky lightsAfter

TPO flat roof with skylight flashings

This roof will last much longer than its predecessor; proper layout, flashing details and planning can give a roof a chance to live up to its potential.

If you have a problem with ponding water on your roof, give us a call.

Thanks,

Tom

703-299-8888

New Slate Roof

Thursday, July 29th, 2010

Roof slates sealed with caulkThis was one of my favorite projects this spring; the existing slate roof was on it’s last leg and had been the victim of some lousy repairs over the years. You can see where some of the slates have just turned to powder, when more than 25% of the slates have gone bad the most prudent thing to do is schedule a complete replacement.

The light gray blobs between the slates is old roof cement; this was someone’s attempt to stop a leak; sealing between slate keyways will usually make the leak worse-not better.

At least 60% of the existing slates have lost the will to live; some have turned to powder that hasn’t blown away yet.

Old roof slates

Tear Off: we removed all the existing slate, we checked the roof deck and made a few minor repairs. Despite the condition of slate the roof has surprisingly few leaks.

Old roof removed

Underlayment and layout of the new roof:

First step is the installation of new 20 oz copper drip edge, this has two purposes; first it becomes our square edge to start layout, secondly it keeps water from backing up and rotting the facia and soffit. Once the drip edge is installed it pretty much disappears but its a critical part of the roof and must last as long as the slates will; hence super heavy 20 oz copper.

Copper drip edge and slate cant strip

Next we installed waterproof underlayment at the eave to a point 24″ inside the warm wall of the house; this will protect the roof from ice dams. then we install two layers of 30# felt to temporarily protect the structure from rain and to give us a clean smooth surface to lay out our slates. We take a long time during layout; before any slates are installed we make sure that they line up evenly on each side of the house. Failing to perform these calculations can leave the house with full slates on the left side and little tiny slates on the right; instead of even sized slates on both sides; look at some houses; you’ll see what Im talking about.

Del Carmen Roof slateMy client chose Del Carmen slate, they are quarried in western Spain and are rated S1. The S1 rating means they will have a useful life of no less than 100 years; they come in many different sizes, these are 16×10 ultra heavy. The previous roof was a thin soft slate in 24×12; I thought they were too big and looked like dinner plates on the roof. It took roughly 350 more slates of 16×10 than it would have if I installed the same 24×12’s; more slates look better, and the thicker profile of the ultra heavies give the roof a rich texture.

New slate roof End of day three; although the roof is very steep we made very good progress. The cloudy gray dust is slate marl (dust) that gets on the slates when the quarry cuts them in Spain, a few hours of rain will rinse it off and let the rich color come through.

Slate roof with new copper wall flashing The front porch got a new roof with less obtrusive copper loop snow guards; they still keep ice from sliding off the roof but are a little less visible than the larger ones we had to use on the main roof. We also installed a new copper gutter on the upper main house roof.

Del Carmen Slate Roof The trees cover my gorgeous roof; I’m sad to report that this is pretty much the best angle to see it. This picture was taken about a month after we finished the job, the copper is starting to turn a dark bronze color and the true deep rich color of the slate is coming through.

Before:Old slate roof this is the day before we ripped the old roof off.

After: back to beautiful again. new Del Carmen Slate roof with copper snow guards I love slate; I’d love to put it on your house, call me if you love slate too.

Thanks,
Tom

703-299-8888

Row House Flat Roof

Thursday, May 13th, 2010

We just finished these row houses. I’m writing about them because unlike the hundreds we have already done these are more like bathtubs than roofs.

Usually, flat roofed houses have at least one side that is open with parapet walls (parapets are walls that are higher than the roof) on either two or three sides. The slightly pitched roofs usually slope toward the area where the parapet is missing, in place of the parapet there is a gutter to carry all of the rainwater away. These houses have had additions built on where that open area once was.

Flat roof with ponding water

Flat roof with ponding water

This vinyl sided area you see was built where the roof used to drain into a gutter. A drain was installed on the left side to handle the rain and melting snow. The drain failed during a huge snowstorm and water came into the house on all three levels.

The roof also has a pretty deep depression, when I was done shoveling off the snow I found about three inches of standing water right in the center of the roof; this roof has to fill up with at least 4″ of water before the first drop ever starts to flow into the drain; not cool. Standing water will kill a flat roof in no time. Would you want to get into a tub with 3″ of last nights water in it? Besides being a mosquito day spa, standing water on the roof starts to smell as leaves and debris start to accumulate and it begins to turn into a pond, a pond without a peeing cherub.

Solving the ponding problem:

Tapered insulation is a dense foam 4′x4′ board that has a slope heading in one direction. We use these 4′ square boards in different combinations to add slope to a retrograde roof.

Tapered insulation

Tapered insulation

You can see how the insulation slopes from 1/2″ on the right to 3″ on the left; by the time the insulation is installed across the roof it will be 6″ high; sloping all the way down to 1/2″.

Tapered insulation

Tapered insulation

The insulation is installed and the first course of the White TPO membrane is being installed.

TPO scupper drain

TPO scupper drain

Since this roof has wall all around it I fabricated a scupper drain, the square plate you see is attached to a stainless steel tube, the tube runs through the brick wall to the outside. This is just like the drain in your tub.

TPO scupper drain

TPO scupper drain

This is the same scupper drain from the back. Its made from TPO coated galvanized steel so we can weld our roofing directly to it. The square tube is made from stainless steel and I solder it to the TPO coated metal. This will pass through the brick parapet wall and carry the water away.

Flat roof before

Flat roof before

Before:

When I took this picture it hadn’t rained for two weeks but the roof still had an inch of water on it.

TPO flat roof with tapered insulation

TPO flat roof with tapered insulation

You can see how the roof pitches directly to the drain, no more pond, no more leaks.

Scupper drain and conductor head

Scupper drain and conductor head

This is where the scupper drain comes through the brick wall, I installed a white aluminum cover plate over the drain tube. Then I installed a conductor head to direct the water down the downspout to the ground.

Here is the other project that we finished the same week:

Before:

Flat roof

Flat roof

This one also failed miserably during a snow storm. Instead of installing a proper flat roof they chose to use a mixture of shingles, flat roof membranes and tar. It worked about as well as you could expect.

During:

New insulation

New insulation

Old roof removed and new insulation installed.

new White TPO flat roof

new White TPO flat roof

New white TPO membrane and new scupper drain installed and ready to face another winter.

TPO scupper drain

TPO scupper drain

My new drain with a plate and conductor head.

Old roof drain

Old roof drain

This was the old drain, the contractor just knocked the bricks out, laid in some bits of metal and tar and called it a day. I was actually surprised it lasted as long as it did.

There are ways to properly address any roof, no matter what the previous owner or roofer did we can always fix it.

If you are having trouble with your roof call me any time.

Standing Seam Terne Metal Roof

Thursday, January 28th, 2010
Standing seam roof to shingle roof

Standing seam roof to shingle roof

This is TCS II; it has a core of stainless steel with a zinc/tin overlay. Look at a dime; copper in the middle and shiny nickel/chromium on the outside; TCSII is bonded and laminated in very much the same way.

Why laminate the stainless you ask? Well, stainless steel stays bright and shiny forever, thats not the look most architects are looking for. The zinc overlay on the stainless core starts out shiny and then develops a patina; a light gray color. By marrying these two metals together you get the best of both worlds; you get the longevity of stainless steel and the beauty of zinc.

TCSII standing seam roof

TCSII standing seam roof

TCSII is one of the most durable metal roofing products available in the world, during corrosion tests it has surpassed all other metal roofs; even copper.

TCSII skylight flashings

TCSII skylight flashings

Because it lasts virtually forever, TCSII demands precision, all the flashings and transitions must be mechanically sealed; that means that all overlapping pieces of metal are folded over twice to make a waterproof  joint.  Caulk and sealant will only last a few years, so any detail that relies on it will fail long before the roof is ready to give up.

There isn’t one drop of caulk on this entire roof.

The shingles you see on the other areas are GAF Timberline Weathered Wood; great shingles.

The zinc coating over the stainless will form a patina in about a year; the final patina will be an even cloudy gray. The panels are shipped with a light protective varnish; the blotches you see are places where my knees and tools have worn  the varnish off’; these spots will disappear in a month or so.

If you would like to learn more give me a call or you can visit http://www.follansbeeroofing.com/products/TCSII.aspx

Follansbee TCSII standing seam roof

Standing seam metal roof with skylights

Follansbee TCSII standing seam roof

Long Term Roof Leaks

Monday, December 28th, 2009
Rotted Roof decking

Rotted Roof decking

How long has it been leaking? Its my first question when someone calls about their roof; and sometimes its hard for my clients to answer.

“Not that long”; is by far the most common answer.

However, “Not that long” can mean a week , or it can mean three months and it can mean four years; it depends on the clients perception of time; sometimes the memory devices people use to date the problem can be quite entertaining. The all time longest was an elderly woman who was able to trace the start of her roof problem with the birth of her grandson in 1999; she called me in 2007.

Water damage happens slowly, then all at once.

Water intrusion is unique in the way it damages a house. Usually roofs don’t fail catastrophically, it starts small and slowly gets worse.

The faster you get to the problem the cheaper it will be to fix. If the leaky roof is ignored the damage  and cost for repairs grow exponentially; what might cost $565.00 to repair today could turn into $5,650.00 within three months. If water is allowed to come into the structure for extended periods you not only must repair the problem that caused the leak, but sometimes everything below the leak.  By the time three rainy months have passed  the insulation in the attic, plywood roof decking, rafters, drywall, electrical outlets, lighting and flooring may have been ruined. There are also mold and insect problems that come up when roofs are let go.

If you are having roof problems don’t wait to call; the sooner you deal with it the cheaper it will be. If cash is tight and you can’t pay for it all, ask us for help. If I can afford it I might be able to extend your time to pay. The universe has been good to me and i find that when I am good to others I’m rarely let down by them.

Leaking roof and rotted decking

Leaking roof and rotted decking

New shingle and copper tile roof in Arlington,VA

Thursday, November 12th, 2009
Before

Before

The interior of this house is being redone, the Owner also decided to give the house a little bit of a face lift.

The existing roof wasn’t in the worst shape, it was a standard three tab shingle that was about 12 years old; no leaks,  but it didn’t really add anything to the curb appeal. The Owner plans to stay here for the next 30 years so she wanted a roof she would never have to deal with again.

Shingle roof complete

Shingle roof complete

The shingles we installed are GAF Timberline Lifetime. The color is Slate Blend; this roof with its copper flashings and great shingles won’t require replacement for at least 50-70 years.

This roof does a few things; first, I think it looks fantastic. Secondly, since it will outlast at least three standard roofs it is keeping thousands of pounds of trash out of the landfill.

You can read about how roofing affects the environment here:http://www.lyonscontracting.com/new-environment.html

Copper tile

Copper tile

Since the project started because the house needed an update, the Owner wanted something original, a jewel to make the house unique. If you know Arlington, there are thousands of houses that look just like this one.

We came up with a few ideas; standing seam copper?, no. How about standing seam zinc?,no, too gray and dreary. How about copper tile?, diamond shaped tile? That sounds perfect; do it!!

Bar folder

Bar folder

The machine to the left is a Peck, Stowe and Wilcox bar folder, it’s 135 years old and is one of my favorite machines. It does one thing; it bends a straight angle in sheet metal and is does it perfectly. When fabricating parts that are to be installed sequentially it is imperative that they all be perfect; if just one of these is off by as little as 3/32″ it can throw off the whole pattern.

Copper tile

Copper tile

A closer view of the tile on the porch roof. Each of the tiles are held in place with two copper hooks; I made the hooks out of scrap copper. The hooks are completely hidden so there are no exposed fasteners. All of the copper on the house is bright and shiny now, but in a month or so it will begin to turn a dark bronze color, a few years after that it will start to turn that beautiful mellow green.

I can’t wait to see my tiles with a full green patina, I’ll  have to put it in my calendar for 2015 to schedule a drive by.

Copper tile and Timberline roof

Copper tile and Timberline roof

Our work is done here; the new architectural shingle roof and the one of a kind copper tiles give the house real curb appeal. The bracing on the front porch will be removed as soon as the mason finishes the new slate walkway.

If your place is getting lost on a block of identical houses give us a call. Id be happy to install a one of a kind roof for you too.

Tom

Zinc Roofing

Thursday, September 24th, 2009
Zinc Roof Dormer

Zinc Roof Dormer

An example of the limitless possibilities with Zinc Roofing

I recently attended a training for an upcoming project; my clients chose VM Zinc for their roof. I have worked with copper, tin, lead, aluminum and steel for years but this was my first exposure to Zinc.

It tools almost identically to copper, it’s a little bit easier to form. Zinc stretches very nicely and when you are forming it with a hammer it’s as if it knows where you want it to go.

Here are some mock ups that were made over the three day course:

Soldering Zinc Sheet

Soldering Zinc Sheet

Zinc solders beautifully, it is very demanding (temps, fluxes, cleanliness ,etc) but once you have the technique down there is nothing you can’t do.

Reinforced zinc solder joint

Reinforced zinc solder joint

The round dots you see centered on the joint give the joint strength during expansion and contraction. I have soldered miles of tin and copper, but soldering zinc was almost like painting with molten lead.

Zinc skylight flashing

Zinc skylight flashing

This is a mock up of a skylight or chimney flashing in a standing seam roof. This flashing detail is very clean and simple and will last for an easy 100 years.

Zinc roofing when installed properly offers some of the same benefits as a copper roof. Both will last for at least 100 years with very little maintenance. However if you are looking for longevity but don’t want the green patina on your project then Zinc might be perfect for you.

Zinc will develop a light gray patina within about 18 months with average exposure to rain and moisture. The patina is self healing; if its ever scratched or worn off it will re develop in a matter of months.

Were all looking forward to the Zinc project and I’ll put up some pics when it starts.

If you’d like more information feel free to call or email tom@lyonscontracting.com

or www.vmzinc.com

How to make a custom copper roof vent

Monday, August 17th, 2009

I’ve had a bunch of people ask me how I made the copper vent in the last post. I had to make a smaller one for the the master bath steam shower; so I took pictures along the way.

Copper vent tube

Copper vent tube

Make a tube: single lock a copper sheet into your desired diameter and length. You should remember geometry from junior high but if you don’t; multiply your desired opening by 3.14, that will be the size of your flat stock before you roll it. Since the vent tube will be in the weather make sure you solder the back seam. This one is a six inches across.

Copper vent ring

Copper vent ring

Make a ring: the protection ring will keep out wind driven rain. The outer ring should be about 2.5″ wider than the vent pipe you just made. Same as the other pipe; single lock and solder the seam.

Beaded outer vent ring

Beaded outer vent ring

Roll a few beads into the copper; it adds strength and beauty to the job.

Struts on inner vent tube

Struts on inner vent tube

Fabricate three struts to support the outer ring, these can be riveted on. Don’t forget to turn down all of your free edges; you want a place for water to drop off before it reaches the inner vent pipe. I test each vent I make, and I have forgotten to turn down the tabs, it leaks, trust me.

Outer vent ring riveted in place

Outer vent ring riveted in place

Rivet the outer ring to the struts, use two rivets per strut and the whole assembly will be rock solid. Also use copper rivets with BRASS mandrels; don’t use the phony copper rivets with steel mandrels; after the rivets are set the head of the mandrel stays behind. When it gets wet it will rust and leave streaks on your beautiful new vent. Spend a couple extra bucks and get the right rivets.

Copper cone vent

Copper cone vent

Make a cone: the cone should be at least 2″ wider than the inner vent pipe. Rivet the seam and solder.

When you make the cone be sure to leave three tabs to rivet the cap to the three struts.

copper vent cap

Copper vent

Copper vent

Ready to be brought to the job site. This vent is completely baffled; meaning it won’t leak during heavy wind driven rain or snow. Since it is made from copper it should last at least 100 years.

Standing seam copper roof and copper vent

Standing seam copper roof and copper vent

Solder a flange to your new vent a the proper angle. Clean the roof area, flux and solder the new vent flange and you are good to go.

I hope the photo descriptions helped; if its too much of a job for you or you just don’t have the time I’d be happy to make one for you.

1800’s Old Town Alexandria Townhouse gets a new copper roof

Monday, August 10th, 2009

IMG_0488 This town house has been gutted from top to bottom by another contractor; when its finished it will be a brand new house inside of the old brick walls. Like many townhouses in Old Town Alexandria this one has been added on to  a few times over its 150 year life.

We started on the upper roof of the oldest section of the house, this section got a new White TPO membrane roof. TPO membrane is installed over rigid insulation board and can really cut down on cooling bills. The membrane is bright white and reflects most of the suns rays; making the upper floor a much more comfortable place to be. TPO requires very little maintenance so it is a really good choice when access to the roof is difficult. You can see the mousetrap we had to build just to get up there.
While working up here you could really feel the difference between the neighbors roof (black roof on the left) and our roof; our roof was a relatively cool 80 degrees while you couldn’t even touch the neighbors roof without gloves because it was so hot.

Standing seam copper roof and copper vent

Standing seam copper roof and copper vent

Because the lower roofs are visible it was important to install a period accurate roof. We installed a new 16oz double lock standing seam copper roof over both lower roof sections.

The really cool looking vent is also made of 16oz copper, the vent was custom made for this project and will be venting the hood over the kitchen range two floors below. We wanted all of this roofs components to have the same 100+ year service life, so copper was the only logical choice for this new vent.

The pipe you see on the left side is a plumbing vent; it allows air into the plumbing system. Remember putting your fingertip over the end of your drinking straw? The water would stay in the straw right?; well this pipe vent does the same thing for the sinks and toilets. This pipe is the only soldered connection on the whole roof, all other flashing details are done by creasing, folding and forming complete sheets.

Standing seam copper roof

Standing seam copper roof

Finishing up the wall coping and flashings. When designing a roof system it’s really important to think think of the roof not just now but 50 years from now. Everything on this roof is copper; the nails, the rivets, the panels, flashings  and even the clips that hold the panels in place are all made from the same gauge copper. When materials are mismatched they create weak points it the roof system. Like all metals, copper expands and contracts with temperature change. Unless allowances are made for that movement and all integral parts are up to the stress the roof will literally tear itself apart in just a few seasons.

Flashing and parapet walls on copper roof

Flashing and parapet walls on copper roof

The flashing details we used on this project have been in use for 300 years in Europe, they are completely waterproof because there is no cutting of the copper panels. All of the folds and curved flashings are formed from complete sheets of copper, details like this take a long time but the roof will never ever fail.  Although bright and shiny now this roof will be a warm bronze/brown color in about two months; about ten years from now it will begin to turn green (think Statue of Liberty).

Copper roofing has a service life of around 150 years, however if it’s not installed with tremendous care, skill and attention it can fail in a few months.

copper skylight flashing

copper skylight flashing

Alexandria VA Slate Roof Repair

Wednesday, July 8th, 2009
Slate Roof Repair Attempt

Slate Roof Repair Attempt

This is a slate roof in Alexandria, VA. The homeowners had been having some sporadic leaking and hired a company to correct the problem. The solution they came up with was not carefully examining the slates for cracks or checking flashings for pits or holes; that would have been the right thing to do.

What they chose to do was spread no less than five gallons of tar over the entire roof plane; making any legitimate repair impossible. When the roof is covered in tar it locks all of the slates in place, you can’t gently remove one or two without destroying all that adjoin it. Think of it like playing Jenga with all of the pieces glued together, not fun I think you’ll agree. Although some are cracked, most of the slates that are covered in tar were still in pretty decent shape. What happens in the following pictures could have been avoided and the homeowners  could have saved a good pile of cash.

Copper Apron Flashing Covered With Tar

Copper Apron Flashing Covered With Tar

The roof was leaking right at the angle change and could have been repaired very simply. All that was necessary was to remove the courses of slate above and below the copper apron flashing; install new copper flashing and new slates. But instead someone with bucket of tar and not even a pair of gloves trashed the whole roof.

I knew he didn’t have gloves because I could see finger prints in a few spots; kind of like the La Brea Tar Pits of poor workmanship.

New Slate with copper snowguards

New Slate with copper snowguards

The old trashed slates were removed and we had to replace a few rotted pieces of 1×6 roof decking. Once the old roof was removed it was plain to see that the leaking was from one place only, however with the roof covered in tar the water was coming in the house in three spots.

We installed new copper drip edging at the eave and along the rakes to keep water from wicking back into the roof. We also installed these copper loop snow guards, the snow guards prevent accumulated ice from sliding off the roof. The guards keep the ice on the roof until it can melt away without destroying anything below.

Finishing Up

Finishing Up

New copper valley flashing, new copper apron flashing and new slate roof tied properly into the old slate roof. No can of tar, no mess, just another stone roof ready to serve for a hundred years. By using copper nails to fasten the slates and copper flashings there is nothing on this portion of roof to rust or corrode.

Finished Slate Roof

Finished Slate Roof

The slates we installed on this job are from the Buckingham Slate Quarry, it’s about four hours from Washington DC and it produces some of the best roofing slate in the world. Buckingham Slate is  graded S1 and has a service life of 125-150 years if properly applied and cared for. The slates above our new roof are not Buckingham and will probably require replacement in the next ten years or so. This will not be a problem, our new roof and apron flashing can stay right in place and the rest of the roof can replaced around it.

If your slate roof is giving you some trouble call a qualified roofer with some demonstrated slate experience. A bucket of tar might seem like a bargain now but it will cost you a fortune in a few months. Even if your roof isn’t having any problems it should be inspected every year, a quick inspection will head off any problems before they get out of hand.

Call if you need me.

Tom